Since 54% of British men are now wearing facial hair [1], the barbershop industry has flourished. But what if you could learn how to trim a beard like a professional?
While it can seem difficult if you’ve never done it before, if you can grow a beard, you can also trim it (and even if you are struggling to grow one, you can always get a beard transplant to help you). All you need are some simple tips and tricks that can get you on the right path to amazing facial hair.
While most beard styles are nowhere near as complex to manage as certain hairdos, the secret to a great look is to find the right one for you. Well-trimmed facial hair can help you mask a patchy beard and highlight your best facial features. And since your beard says a lot about you, keeping it neat can help project the image you desire. This article will tell you everything you need to know about:
While you can shave your beard anytime, trimming requires some level of preparation. It needs to be done at the right time, with the right instruments. Here is what you need to do before you start this process:
Experts recommend that you carry the following indispensable items in your beard-trimming kit [3]:
There are two main ways you can go about trimming your beard: the traditional style – (with a comb and a pair of barber’s shears), and the modern style (with an electric trimmer).
The choice depends on preference and on the effect you want to achieve (the trimmer will make your beard shorter and more even, while the shears can give it a more detailed, textured look). You can even mix the two, using trimmers on your sideburns and cheeks and the shears on the beard’s length. Regardless, here are the steps you need to follow to get the beard you desire [2][3]:
Using your shears is the easiest way to achieve this – simply cut away any clumps or flyaway strands sticking out of your beard. This will give you a rough contour of your facial hair so you know what you’re working with.
Pro tip: Hold the scissors parallel to the rest of your facial hair. Holding it at an angle can cut too deep and get some of the good hair alongside the rough edges. This could create an unsightly hole in your beard, especially if it’s not very long.
If your beard is longer than you like, use your shears to cut it down to size. Don’t be afraid if it looks rough at this point; you will shape it later. Using scissors may make it easier to shorten grown-out facial hair than using clippers.
Pro tip: Always leave your beard slightly longer than you eventually want it to be on the first try. You can then evaluate your look in the mirror and decide if it needs to be shorter.
If you are using shears to trim your facial hair, use your comb to draw out the length of hair that needs cutting, then slice it away, cutting off the same amount each time. Start from the top of one side of your face and work your way down, then do the same with the other side, stopping from time to time to check for symmetry.
If using an electric trimmer, connect the attachment that matches your desired beard length and hold it at a 45-degree angle. If you aren’t sure about the length you want, start with the longest attachment, change it to a shorter one and keep going until you are satisfied. Simply move the clippers slowly and gently top-down on your beard, first on one side of your face and then on the other, until you have a uniform result.
Pro tip: You will get a more natural appearance if you trim your beard slightly shorter around your sideburns and upper cheeks, leaving it progressively longer as it reaches your chin. The difference is easily obtained by using two trimmer attachments 1-2 mm apart.
Where your beard begins and ends plays an important role in its style and overall appearance. Fuller facial hair can start as high as your sideburns, but if you want to fix a patchy beard around the cheeks naturally, you may want to lower your cheek line and shave the balding area clean.
As for your neck hair, while a longer beard may allow you to let it grow lower, it will always look neat and classy if properly trimmed to a crisp line.
Pro tip: Place one finger horizontally just above your Adam’s apple and shave off everything below it. This should give you an elegant, well-groomed neckline.
Your moustache is an important part of your facial hair. So, it is always a good idea to trim it down as well when clipping your beard. Use the comb to isolate the desired length of hair that needs shortening and cut it straight with your shears.
If you are using a trimmer, keep the same attachment you used for your beard and simply move it gently downwards along the growth direction of your moustache.
Pro tip: Using your trimmer against the grain can cut your ‘moustache too short. It is best to use a pair of scissors to give it a nice, uniform finish if you can still feel some hairs on your upper lip after using clippers.
A healthy, well-groomed beard will maintain its shape for longer. Using beard oils to moisturise and soften your hair can make it easier to style your newly trimmed beard, making it look silkier and shinier and helping it remain in place. At the same time, it prevents frizzy, dry, brittle hair.
Pro tip: While no studies show whether essential oils for hair growth have the same follicle-stimulating effects on your beard as on your scalp, they may still be helpful. That is because they contain natural antioxidants and hair vitamins for men that your beard needs to remain healthy. Black seed oil or peppermint oil can be very good options.
Just try to avoid rosemary oil for hair growth, as some of its components are natural DHT blockers, which help male pattern baldness but may hinder beard growth.
To give your beard crisp, clean edges, you will need a soft pencil (an eyeliner would be ideal) and a razor (or the thin precision blade on the back of your trimmer).
The first thing to do is draw the desired contour onto the skin of your beard area. You can use a ruler for extra-straight edges (however, a softer, more natural look may serve you better).
Then, starting about a millimetre from the line, work the blade outwards, away from your beard. Use short, patient motions to avoid accidents that could ruin your contour.
If you’re growing your beard out, trim it every three to four weeks to keep it looking neat. To maintain a certain shape or style, it’s best to trim it once every one to two weeks.
While trimming too often can chip away at your beard length, under-trimming can give it an unkempt, messy appearance. So, it is best to bring out your clippers only when you notice your facial hair losing its shape.
There is no such thing as an optimal beard length — everyone has their own preference. What matters most is that you are happy and comfortable with the length you have chosen and are able to care for it accordingly.
However, if you struggle with a sparse or patchy beard, your first instinct may be to keep it short. But experts say that the opposite may serve you better. Letting your facial hair grow out longer can often help cover the thinning spots through the sheer volume and texture of your beard hair. So, even if you may have to go through some awkward beard phases, consider growing out your facial hair to mask those patchy spots.
If you are looking for further beard care advice or are concerned about conditions that cause beard hair loss (e.g. alopecia barbae), don’t hesitate to book a consultation with a trichologist (a beard and hair specialist). They can also help you understand the mechanisms that make your facial hair grow thick and full and recommend evidence-based beard growth treatments as needed.
Furthermore, they can develop personalised, healthy facial hair care routines tailored to your specific texture. Should you be faced with persistent inability to grow a full beard, the trichologist can determine whether you would make a good candidate for a beard transplant.
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